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New Ulysse Nardin Freak One OPS in Tactical Green

Although Freak has been a legend of boundary-pushing Ulysse Nardin watches since 2001, 2023 seems to have become the year of Freak. Starting with the Freak One in March, we saw the most refined and elegant version of the Freak to date. Then in September we got a militaristic update to the "affordable" Freak X, swapping its magma-infused carbon composite for khaki green. Now, the Ulysse Nardin Freak One OPS combines elements of both in a tactical experiment in high luxury.

The Freak One's outer shell doesn't need much modification to fit the OPS theme, which is short for "Operation" in the military sense. DLC-coated titanium ensures it's lightweight on the wrist while still remaining scratch-resistant and durable. The lugs have been frosted to add a little extra shine to the matte finish, but the main update is to the bezel. Their Carbonium looks like a plume of silver smoke and is made from 95% upcycled aerospace materials. Its swirling texture adds to the Freak’s quirky mystique and goes some way to concealing the notch in the shape of the bezel.

At 44mm wide, the Freak One OPS is an absolute behemoth, but that's to be expected from the Freak. It's designed to be as glaring as possible, almost daring you to laugh at it. It's surprisingly comfortable to wear, though, with the short lugs and 12mm thickness ensuring it doesn't feel too much like an anchor on the wrist. Titanium also helps, reducing overall weight. You probably won't want to take it swimming thanks to its 30m water resistance, but it should be up to the task for other outdoor activities.

The Ulysse Nardin Freak was one of the first watches to break the barriers between movement and dial, transcending the art of skeletonization. The flying tourbillon has been redesigned, with the balance now moving across the dial with its own minute hand in an arrangement known as the “Flying Carousel.” In this version, the bridges between the components are coated in black and roughly bevelled in a way that looks very industrial, while the sheer width of the minute hand evokes power. The hour hand is just a large arrow that appears to be floating and moves independently beneath the minute hand.

The dial itself is fairly minimalist, but still features radial stripes. It's almost like a macro version of the Sunburst brush, more suited to the tactical aesthetic. Khaki green is paired with cream prints and glow-in-the-dark paint, while contrasting black favors a more casual look. By far the most eye-catching feature is the electric blue balance wheel, proving that the dial and the movement are truly indistinguishable.

Ulysse Nardin labels this movement UN-240, and you can interact with it on every level of the watch. Through the bezel, you can adjust the time by lifting the lock and simply turning it to any position you need. Winding the watch is done similarly, but on the case back bezel, which is surrounded by a sapphire crystal to showcase the Grinder automatic system. You may have noticed that the Freak doesn't have a crown, and thanks to these features, it doesn't need one. The large silicon balance wheel is an important part of the movement, as the Freak was the first watch to use this material, and Ulysse Nardin subsequently improved it with a diamond coating now called DIAMonSIL. In addition to silicon's natural magnetic resistance and longevity, this also makes it more resistant to impact and wear. The operating frequency is 3Hz and the power reserve lasts 90 hours.

Featuring integrated hardware, the Ulysse Nardin Freak One OPS comes on a khaki green rubber strap with contrasting black edges. Its texture makes it look woven, and the underside is ridged to promote airflow and reduce sweating. The rubber is made from 30% recycled material, and the pin buckle hardware is made from the same black DLC-coated titanium as the case.

Even though the Ulysse Nardin Freak One OPS is definitely one of the most intriguing Freak references to be released, it's still definitely an oddity. It's a pretty big commitment to spend that much money on something so niche, but the materials, artistry, and horological significance are definitely worth it. The biggest factor is your personal taste and whether this is the right flavor of Freak for you.

Ulysse Nardin Freak One OPS

Brand Ulysse Nardin
Model Freak No. 1 OPS
Reference number 2403-500-8A/3A
Housing dimensions 44mm (D) x 12mm (L)
Case material DLC coated titanium with carbon fiber bezel
Water resistance 30 meters
Crystal Sapphire crystal front and back
dial khaki green
Straps khaki green and black rubber
Mobile UN-240, homemade, automatic grinder, DIAMonSIL escapement processing
Power reserve 90 hours
Function hours, minutes